Trip Report: Big Adventure on Big Rock
“Hi everyone, my name is Jason and I am a boulderer.”
This phrase is exactly how I’ve been feeling as a climber for the past few years. When I first started climbing, I was all into big walls and traditional climbs, looking at bouldering as ‘below me’ somehow, and now that’s all I really do. Well, in an effort to help my bouldering monotony, my good friend Dane and I got the idea to do some South Platte climbing. The South Platte is a mystical climbing area, full of adventure and wonder… Oh, and awesome rocks like this one:

We didn’t want to climb just any South Platte formation, we wanted to climb the grand-daddy of all South Platte formations; Big Rock Candy Mountain. This seldom-climbed chunk of stone is one of Colorado’s biggest (outside of the park) and packs a full day of adventure. The route we had chosen is called Childhood’s End 5.12- R, an amazing route characterized by long runouts on steep slabs. The route was established by Ken Trout, Eric Winkelman, and Brian Hansen in ground up, lead bolting style, a true testament to the abilities of the first ascentionists and the South Platte climbing ethic.
Our day started at 5:00 in the morning, when Dane shows up at my house. Now, there are two ways to approach this enormous monstrosity; one approaches from the West (the formation faces west and the South Platte River runs along the base), and the other from the East (Turkey Rocks area). So, you either need to take a gnarly 4X4 road from the East, or drive around and hike down and cross the river. Since it’s June and we’ve had record snowfall this year, we opted not to cross the river, so we approached from Turkey Rocks. The road is pretty harsh on a vehicle, but will provide you with exactly what you need, if you are attentive enough to notice. We had planned on bringing ‘victory beers’ to enjoy at the car after summiting, but with all the hustle and bustle of getting ready, we somehow forgot them. On the way in, we get out to inspect a gnarly part of the road before we continue, and what do we find laying in the sand??? An unopened bottle of Moosehead Lager! We hit the jackpot. Further down the road, we had to get out once again to check the terrain, and guess what else we find in the sand… A second unopened bottle of Moosehead Lager! We have victory beer! We also found a couple pairs of goggles on the way in… Score!

So, after taking the gnarly 4X4 road, we head to the base of the formation. You have to understand that there are boulders EVERYWHERE around these parts and I couldn’t help but be mystified by all the possibilities, but we were there for something else. (I’ll be back for the boulders) Dane takes the first lead up the beginning slabs, plugging gear where he can and clipping the VERY sparsely placed bolts. (It gets an R rating for a reason) The first seven pitches were a great warm-up with some spicy spots, but nothing too hairy. So, we arrive at the base of the crux eighth pitch and it’s my turn to lead.

Heading up the crux wasn’t too bad, considering its extremely well bolted, which is highly uncharacteristic of this route and this formation. After reaching the anchor, I belay Dane up the crux and he cruises it. The next pitch is slightly runout (15-20 feet between bolts) and it’s Dane’s turn. Much to our surprise, the wind began to kick up something fierce as Dane begins up the ninth pitch. As he nears the anchors, where the bolts are widely spaced and the climbing is 5.10+ slab, 50-60 mph gusts come racing across the slab face. I am amazed that Dane makes it to the anchor without falling. As I am seconding the ninth pitch, I proceed to get blown off the slab about 3 or 4 times from the insane wind gusts, but I make it to the anchor, petrified and terrified. As I look at Dane’s face, I can see the fear in his eyes, as I’m sure he could see the fear in mine. Why were we so scared? Oh ya, the next pitch, although it’s 5.7, there are NO bolts for nearly 150 feet. I certainly didn’t want to get blown off of 5.7 for a 200+ foot ride down a granite slab, and neither did Dane. We had a decision to make. After 20 minutes of deliberation, I find my balls and say, “Dane, I’m going for it.” Dane says, “Are you sure?” And I begin climbing. Focused and undeterred, I make my way up the slab, fighting the wind and the fear. I pull over a hump in the slab and see the anchor. Calm and collected, I gun for the anchor and clip in. After that pitch, nothing would stop us from summiting. We continue chugging along until we reach the summit.

We made it, we had finally climbed a route that I had been thinking about climbing for nearly 16 years, and it was more than 20 feet tall. Today, I remembered my climbing roots, and that I’m not just a boulderer, I’m a climber.
There are several products that helped Dane and I on this adventure. First of all, we took a Beal Stinger III 9.4mm x 70M dry treated rope. This rope is too legit to quit. Being only a 9.4, it is ideal for longer routes like this where you do a considerable amount of rope flaking, it’s not super heavy, and it handles like a dream. The rock here in the Platte is also tough as nails, and very abrasive and hard on ropes. Beal ropes are extremely well made and can take all the abuse the South Platte can dish out.

The NEW Black Diamond Hoodwire carabiner was extremely important for those ‘thank god’ clips. Getting the draw out fast, and not having its nose snag on your gear loop is extremely important when you’re on the edge, about to slip. It also makes it nice to clean, not snagging on the bolt, not to mention it’s a lightweight wiregate.

I wore the ClimbX Drifter for this climb. Most of my shoes look like talons because they are all so downturned, so I was forced to get some comfortable shoes I could climb slabs all day in. The Drifter performs exceptionally well for the price point. It’ll smear, edge and jam just as well as any other comparable shoe. The ClimbX rubber was surprisingly sticky and it was comfortable enough to wear for six hours straight. Oh, did I mention its only $60!!!

Speaking of shoes, we approached in the La Sportiva Boulder X. I have found very few approach shoes that perform as well and are as comfortable as the Boulder X. They smear on slabs like a dream, so much in fact, that I wore them on the first pitch and crausched it! When the approach requires a good deal of scrambling, you want some sticky rubber between you and the rock, so get some Boulder X!

The Black Diamond BBee was a killer pack to take on any bigger wall. Not too bulky, but enough room to carry everything you could possibly need. (Even the goggles we found on the approach) Comfortable to climb with, you barely even notice you’re wearing it.

Like I mentioned earlier, the wind was kicking up something fierce, making it hard to focus and often making it a little chilly on the belay. I wore a Sierra Designs Hurricane Jacket to battle the wind on this ascent, and it performed like a pro!

A helmet is an extremely important piece of gear on any bigger wall, especially something as runout as Childhood’s End. I was wearing the time-tested classic, Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet and Dane was sporting the Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet. Both are comfortable and do the job well!

Last, but not least, we have the Platypus Bottle. If you’re like me and you hate drinking your water through a tube, but weight is a factor, look no further. The Play Bottle is the bottle for you. They are collapsible, so that when it’s empty, you don’t have a bulky water bottle still taking up space in your pack.

Well, that’s all, hope you enjoyed the trip report. Go climb something that incorporates a style you aren’t very used to, it will make you a better, more well rounded climber! And don’t forget to maintain… HARD!!!
Jason Baker
Sales Lead/Shipping & Receiving
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited
2401 15th Street, Suite 100
Denver, CO 80202
303-964-0708